On a Clear Day

On a clear day you can see half way down the Bay, or so it seems. We left Osprey Point about 9:30 am and to our disappointment we had little wind to fill our sails. It was our grand scheme to sail the full length of he Bay, no motoring this trip. Well, greater plans than this have failed many a sailor before us so with gratitude for a nice day, we motored over to Oxford. The waters were full of really large ships today, perhaps because yesterday was really windy, or maybe its because ships have been unable to get into Baltimore for a week due to the Star Spangled Celebration this past week. This traffic made Bay south of the Annapolis Bay Bridge really roly-poly! We could see a lone tall ship under full sail in the direction of Baltimore but most of the ships left Baltimore yesterday, limiting our chances of seeing another. There was little else to tell about the day except that it went smoothly and about seven hours later we were docked at Campbell's Boatyard for the night. We cooked aboard and will enjoy the solitude here on Oxford Town Creek off the Tred Avon River tonight.


Initially we were disappointed that the Osprey had fledged and migrated south off Swan creek, our home port, but they are still on the nests on Town Creek. In the morning we will borrow bikes and ride to town for some photographs. With luck, the first thing we'll capture are those Osprey.

The Annapolis Bay Bridge

One of our traveling companions.

Sharps Island Light
The Leaning Tower of the Chesapeake


 

Bloody Point Light








The Oxford-St. Michaels Ferry

'Something 'bout a boat . . .

Five years ago we made a pact, to live our dream instead if dreaming our life. To that end, we retired, divested ourselves of our house and all that makes a home. No longer in need of professional wardrobes, we burned our socks and donated the rest of our clothes, moved aboard Promise, and set sail for Jimmy Buffet adventures. 

During the next few years we sailed in storm and splendor, and met many fine people in very port and anchorage. We rarely missed the comforts of home, but always missed our family. We committed ourselves to finding the perfect place to live that would give us closer visits with our sons and grandchildren, but perfect meant it couldn't be too hot or cold, needed to be near water, and it had to be a viable town. Luck brought us to Lewes, Delaware, and it is there we built a home and reconnected with family and friends over the last year. Cape Henlopen protects us from severe weather swings (OK, not so much this winter) and the beaches feel familiar, like our Jersey Shore memories. The last twelve months have been wonderful, except, we missed the boat. 

There's something 'bout a boat, gives a man hope (Jimmy Buffet.) Promise spent six months on the hard. By the time we launched in mid-summer, winds were stagnant as they are in July and August and the temperature on the Bay soared, and given the choice of having the kids and their kids or friends to Lewes and going to the boat, family and friends always won out. We could feel our days numbered in their busy lives so we took advantage. of every each day we had with people we love. 

And so Promise waited, and the wait was worth it. Rick sailed the Maryland Governors Cup Race on August 1 & 2, from Annapolis to St. Mary's up the Potomac. The overnight race was a once in a lifetime adventure for Rick and four friends who battled strong winds and six foot waves. They flew through the storm and finished around 5:30 AM. Satisfied they had finished, tired and wet from the adventure, the crew sailed on to Solomon's for rest. It was mid-afternoon when they learned that Promise had won her class and won with corrected time! Check that one off the bucket list- captain and crew should be very proud, indeed. 

But now it is time to do some serious cruising, short sails and a big race behind us. We have buttoned up the house, hitched a rental ride to Rock Hall and loaded the boat with supplies for a trip south. The day was full of checklists, filling tanks, stowing gear and getting the dingy on board. We depart in the morning for Oxford, Maryland, a forty mile run down the Chesapeake Bay. A North, then East wind and crisp September weather will make for a pleasant sail. This time around, we have mixed feeling as we are detaching from a new life in Lewes and our family and friends . . . but there's something about a boat. 

Rick at the helm at the start of the race

The Pride of Baltimore at the Annapolis start

 

Fall Comes to the Chesapeake

September 3, 2013

A couple of weeks ago I was awakened by a small flock of geese honking noisily as they circled “The Haven” in Swan Creek just west of our marina.  While the temperatures continue to hover near the 90’s in the afternoons the telltale signs of fall are approaching. Last week we anchored for a couple of nights in a protected cove of the Magothy River. Each morning a building flock of Tree Swallows flitted between our mast and spreaders and those of another boat anchored nearby. By the second morning they literally covered our superstructure and fought for landing rights.

The realization of fall’s approach hit home yesterday afternoon.  As we walked down the docks another couple on a boat nearby asked if we’d seen the Bald Eagles circle over the pool this afternoon.  I said we’d missed them, responding with a question, “Are the Ospreys gone?”  Our eagles typically hide in the woods all summer until the Osprey’s head south.  Sure enough, their familiar cry was missing at dawn this morning as I sat in the cockpit with my first cup of coffee waiting for sun to appear.

The cloud cover remains this morning and a north wind precedes the approaching cold front that is predicted to arrive tomorrow from the upper Midwest. I don’t know how the Ospreys choose their departure.  In previous years I’ve watched parents encouraging fledglings circle higher and higher in the towering thermals of the late summer afternoons just before they disappeared.  This year I missed the signs but remember the ritual. 

A few hours later we took a drive into Chestertown and leaves from the Remington woods swirled in our truck back draft. Temperatures are in the sixties at night now, high temps are a moderating and the breeze is picking up. Sad to see summer end, we look forward to fall sailing.

You Can Never Have Enough Light Houses: Up the Bay to Rock Hall, June 21, 2013

Our trip home was sped up, blown along if you will, by a change in the weather and a string of strong storm threats. Sadly, we abandoned our plan to explore the Outer Banks and headed for home- one tropical storm brought us to our senses. Besides, we missed our families.

Sailing Pamlico, Albemarle and behind Curritick sounds were classic: choppy, shallow water, strong winds and grey skies. We chose the Virgina Cut, complete with a Prime Rib dinner with sailing friends at Coinjock. Then it was a long day to Norfolk but weather improved and we looked forward to a few days of rest and great restaurants, provisioning and more exploring of this area. Mile zero was behinds us!

But, an eye on all of our weather apps warned us winds were picking up in time for docking in Norfolk, not exactly our best experience as winds howled inside the marina. By the time we settled in for the night it was apparent the best day in the next week was the next one, so with regrets we cancelled our slip commitment, left the dock at seven in the morning and made way to Deltaville. We made great time, riding the tide, and we were able to sail, our goal for the Chesapeake leg of this trip. However, making Deltaville meant hunkering down for three rough days of strong winds and rain. Once the initial storm blew out we still had two more days to wait for favorable tides and winds for the leg to Solomons Island which includes the mouth of the Potomac River, notorious for a mind of its own. One night in Solomon's and we were off for home port. Seas on the Bay ran three to five feet which simply meant we were tired when we reached home but we did manage to sail most of the Bay. June 21, 2013, seems like ages ago.

It didn't take long for us to need a road trip (or three.) We have visited grandkids and spent a few days in Lewes, DE. Sadly, the winds here have only been sailable on days we have made other commitments. The dog days of summer have set in but I'm sure we will find ways to take Promise out, especially with her new coat of wax and her Intercoastal mustache gone!  In the meantime, enjoy these scenes that welcomed us home to the Chesapeake and Rock Hall, Maryland.

Our Baltimre Light just north of the Bay Bridge.

Green Seven, we are getting close.



The infamous mustache from traveling the Intercoastal Waterway



Captains Log Recap: The great trip to home port, Miami to Rock Hall June 21, 2013

We know of several people following our blog  who are planning their own trip south in the near future, so I kept better notes on our trip home this spring to share. We left Dinner Key Marina at Coconut Grove, Miami, FL on May 8^th, and arrived back at our “home port” of Rock Hall, MD on June 21.  We’d waited several days after our land trip up to Washington, DC for a good weather window, and when it finally came we headed up the coast with plans to stop in Ft. Lauderdale or continue to Lake Worth Inlet if the weather allowed. As it was we picked up the Gulf Stream and even though there was not enough wind to fill our sails, we passed Lauderdale by lunch and were through Lake Worth in time to head to North Lake Worth for an anchorage, our only night on the hook for the trip. 

Most of you know that we are creatures of comfort; we’ve become marina hoppers so that we can plug in the AC and rest assured that if it blows or storms we’re safe and sound.

Well, here’s some details that some of you may be interested in:

Travel days total:                    44

Days we moved the boat        24

Statute miles covered (approx)          1245

Speed (avg.)                           7 mph/6.4 knots

Engine hours                           177

Diesel fuel (Gal)                                  227

Fuel Costs                               $870

Fuel consumption (gal/hr)       1.3

Marina fees ($1.50-2.50)        $4,000

Was it a great trip? Yes! But it’s good to be “home” too. 

Peace, Love, and Fishy, Fishy. Southport, NC. Mile Marker 309

For every tropical storm, there is safe port and a new set of friends with whom we can weather watch. For Andrea, we holed up at Barefoot Landing Marina (Myrtle Beach, SC) for three uneventful days. Winds were modest, though the swing bridges did not open because winds surpassed twenty five miles per hour. The storm headed inland more than expected so we were spared strong conditions, and while we do not favor Barefoot Landing as a destination, the buildings blocked much of the winds.

Today we cast off at 6:30 am to run two swing and seven fixed bridges, the “rocks” and “ledges,” and New River, Shallotte, Lockwood’s Folly Inlets.  Mission accomplished, winds calm at 6-8 knots, and the sun after the storm was welcome. However, five minutes from our stop in Southport, NC, the winds kicked up to 15-18 knots because the marina sits across from an inlet and river entrance. The marina said they had 45 mile an hour sustained winds all day yesterday and today was nothing. They made docking a breeze though we are a tad exposed on the face dock.

Southport is an absolutely perfect-for-movie-making kind of town, and that’s why we wanted to stop here. There are several restaurants, a cute viable town, a waterfront and tourist stops where movies have been shot, all on a picturesque walk from the marina.  Every house is cuter than the last, with live oaks and hydrangeas, gingerbread and picket fences. The most recent movie filmed here was Safe Haven in 2012. We played tourist and loved it, starting with lunch at Fishy, Fishy, a fish dive recommended by Coastal Living. This is one stop I would highly recommend. A super marina experience made the day complete.

View of the harbor

The movie company built this Ryan's Port Market at
the harbor, then burned it in the film.

The roads all lead down to the water.

Alex's cottage in Safe Haven.

This bar served as Katie's place of employment in Safe Haven.
The mural was painted for the movie.

Charleston to Tropical Storm Andrea, Mile Marker 354

There is no place like Charleston, to visit that is. We have never been to Charleston this late in the year so the heat and humidity were a shock to us. It turned out this was the first week of an annual celebration of all the arts, Spoleto and Piccolo Spoleto. The later is a series of events and venues open to the public without big ticket prices, the goal being something for everyone. Because we did not know of the seventeen day festival soon enough, we were unable to secure tickets to music events which appealed to us.We did however enjoy an amazing performance of A Midsummer Night's Dream performed by the the Bristol Old Vic and Handspring Puppet Company, the group who brought you War Horse on Broadway! The play was one of many performances in the recently restored Dock Street Theater, an establishment as old as the city itself. It was magical, as were the free events we took in. The city was crowded with destination Spoleto guests but everyone's spirits were great, awestruck and happy.

Fortunately we had made restaurant reservations well in advance, and even then we had to settle for second choices or odd times. This trip we ate at Husk (getting too uppity because of their reputation: watch out Sean Brock and staff!,) High Cotton, Magnolias, and the Palmetto Cafe, which was our favorite. Palmetto is in Charleston Place Hotel, owned by the Orient group who coincidentally owns the Inn at Perry's Cabin in St. Michael's near our home port. They were even gracious enough to give us recipes. We found the tempting cuisine and the heat a poor combination, but we were grateful to have this opportunity.

We had a different quest this visit to Charleston, to seek out examples of art by Jonathan Greene, and we were very successful. We are huge fans of his Gullah interpretations in vibrant colors and low country themes. Charleston Place was decorated with his work, there were tile murals in the City Market Place, the Gibbs Gallery has just completed a showing of his work, and we found the gallery owner who represents him. If you keep your eyes peeled you will see his work in unusual places. Unfortunately we had poor luck with our own photography during this visit because of the crowds, the light always being wrong, the French Quarter being of narrow streets, etc., until we just gave up and enjoyed the views. Sometimes, its a good thing to do.

We cast off on Sunday, June 2, at first light and mid-tide which we needed to get past Isle of Palms. This was so tricky it made the Georgia stretch look deep! But, we successfully arrived in Georgetown that afternoon for a three day stay based on inaccurate weather forecasts for the next few days. While in Georgetown we rented a car to visit Pauly's Island and spent a day at Brookgreen Gardens. The 900 acre gardens were established by Archer and Anna Hyatt Huntington (1931) in the footprints of four former rice plantations, one of which was the home of Vice President Aaron Burr's daughter and her plantation owner husband. Anna needed a warmer climate as she had tuberculosis, and she was a sculpture of high regard. Hence, the gardens showcased her work and that of prominent sculptures, some quite recent. There are two indoor galleries as well as ponds, outdoor installations, a zoo, and more. Be careful where you walk, native species of all kinds roam free, including venomous snakes, alligators and bear. We enjoyed a trekker trip to a plantation homestead and the Alston cemetery, but we did little walking about!

Across the modern highway is a South Carolina State Park with beachfront on the Atlantic Ocean. Here the Huntingtons built a less than attractive structure (called the Castle?) which survives hurricanes despite being mere yards to the Atlantic's door.  In Moorish architecture, the hose was built without a plan, and the owners employed only local labor is its construction. Atalaya means watchtower, and the structure had one, not for protection but to hold the water supply.

By Wednesday we were anxious to move and to be secure before weather set in. After passing through the "rocks" or ledges we tied up at a face dock at Barefoot Landing. No amenities but several loud restaurants, and other boaters to keep company, waiting out tropical storm Andrea. The forecast is ever changing but our captain says being here until Saturday mid-tide again will get us favorable water for the upcoming inlets.  Good time to read, catch up on writing, plan the rest of the trip. We are now competing with fishing tournaments as well as seasonal boaters for out slips and space on the waterway. Arrrrg!

We will be safe though a little rocky if the storm ever gets here. Do not worry :). 

When we say low water,
we mean low water.

In Charleston Place.

Fish dive in Murrels Inlet.

Reading the Paper in Detroit
Brookgreen Garden

Original plantation wall and gate
in Brookgreen Garden

Cemetery Gate
Brookfield

Resurrection fern, resurrects itself with rain.

She especially loved horses,
and a big scale.

Anna designed the iron work at Atalaya.

Look how close Atalaya is to the beach!

Jonathan Greene at the market.