tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20095492583302669532024-03-12T23:36:32.928-04:00Rick and Susan Go Sailing on PromiseRick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comBlogger100125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-58485759884920866512016-11-05T19:00:00.000-04:002016-11-13T14:59:49.824-05:00Putting Away Those North Carolina Bridges<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It may seem repetitive to nonsailors, but we are preoccupied with those bridges on the ICW. The air draft under a bridge can be influenced by tides and/or winds, full moons and the wake of other boats. Just because Catalina has promoted our model with a 63'10" mast as Intercoastal friendly doesn't mean it is. The Army Core of Engineers never dreamt we would all crave bigger, taller vessels when they set that 65' standard. Time and settling have reduced some bridges, like the one we pass under tomorrow, to 64' in the best of circumstances. Now there is also the excess rainwater backlog from Hurricane Matthew that is flowing out to sea to add to our planning. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We pushed really hard to get to River Dunes in North Carolina so we took two days to rest. It was a nice visit with other travelers and a pair of 80 degree days to renew our spirits. The restaurant offered a simple but delicious mariners supper for $15 that we didn't pass up. It gave us a chance to network and relax in their stunning clubhouse. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When we did leave, we timed our late day departure to manage Core Creek Bridge just before Beaufort. We love this town and Beaufort Grocery and Blue Moon Bistro restaurants so the fact we stayed four days to stage for the next bridge was not a hardship for us! We took a ferry ride over to Shakleford Bank for the afternoon to do some shelling and enjoy the last day over 80 degrees with all the sunshine you'd expect on the Crystal Coast. Since the hurricane, the wild horses have been hiding and sure enough, we did not see any here or on Carrot Island either. Our souvenir from this stop is new custom sheets for the forward cabin compliments of Beaufort Linen Company on Main Street- beautiful and highly recommended. The shop is as adorable as the couple, Christina and Richie, who own it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Today we played the tides under the Atlantic Bridge just after we left Beaufort. A 7:30 departure took us under it at low tide, all we needed. It felt strange to be tied up at Dudley's Marina in Swansboro by eleven, and tied up in 15-20 knot winds, but it's all about the staging for tomorrow and not feeling beaten up by long days. Our only real stress today was the flotilla of small fishing boats in the channel and under the Emerald Isle Bridge. They are anchored and do not move, like we are able to maneuver a sailboat quickly! Caution if you travel this way (mm 226) on the weekends. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For those of you monitoring hurricane damage, or for those of you who dislike Brown and Bear Inlets, we can share that all markers are back on station. We are leaving here at a reasonable hour to take those at high tide and still approach the U. S. Highway 210 Bridge, (milemarker 252.3, and just 64') at mid tide falling. We invested in large water jugs to fill and swing from a halyard off the bow in addition to all of our other tricks to lean Promise just a few more degrees. Fingers crossed, sailors. We are off to Harbor Village and then Wrightsville Beach for two days. The weather keeps holding though it's chilly, and setting clocks back tonight buys us an extra hour of daylight to keep on checking off those bridges each day. </span></div>
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-23307806530300171622016-10-29T06:56:00.000-04:002016-11-05T17:52:06.540-04:00You Can't Beat Mother Nature, Or a Hurricane Named Matthew<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We had been waiting fifteen months to make this trip; we made our arrangements and kissed the kids good bye, but we were not in charge this fall. Our departure date was originally September 15th.. This would be a leisurely trip south in the beauty and warmth of the Chesapeake in fall. Then some personal business forced us to postpone until the last week of September. What's a few days, we thought. Finally, on September 24, we loaded up the boat for an early departure. We sent our son Matt, who'd acted as delivery captain, back to Lewes with our vehicle, in a drizzle. After all, we have experience, we are fearless, and a little rain does not dissuade us, we are sailors. </span><span style="font-family: "arial";">Yes, we had been watching the development of Matthew, losing sleep over a tropical depression like the weather junkies that we've become, believing it would not affect us. It would breeze by the coast and we could move on down the Chesapeake Bay. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">But a funny thing happened on the way to our big 2016 adventure: the floorboards over the batteries grew warm late at night before departing, a sure sign of batteries boiling over. Despite having the batteries load tested just weeks before, we opted not to cast off on Wednesday morning and to order new batteries be installed. Observed: white knights from Gratitude Marina who responded to an early morning call from Captain Rick and marvel that new batteries were installed by 3PM that very day. Surely we will cast off in the morning we thought, we have lots of time to enjoy the Bay. We thought we would just refresh our weather information, check a few sources and chat with the dock master. Since it was now raining steady and blowing a good 15-25 knots, we buttoned up for the night. Our son called and offered to rescue us on Wednesday, we declined. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Thursday dawned following a windy night, with Matthew exploding into a CAT 5 hurricane. It was howling and raining fierce. We thought perhaps it was wise to stay put and wait and see. Again our son called with a lifeline and we said, not us, not ready to quit. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">By Friday </span><span style="font-family: "arial";">the path of Matthew looked like it would move up the coast to the Chesapeake, the exact point where it would come ashore was still up for discussion, after all, Matthew had yet to reach the Bahamas. We did not leave the slip again that day. Instead we studied our options and the local forecasts. Could we make River Dune/Grace Harbor in Oriental, NC, in time to be safe from a hurricane? No, we didn't want to be rescued on Friday. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">By Saturday morning, it was growing clear that devastation would hit one of our destinations, either Florida, Charleston, Hilton Head, or maybe even our home port in Maryland, it was yet to be determined which one. Enter Prudence and Disappointment and then that phone call to our son. Yes, please come get us. We off loaded the food and a banjo, little else because we would return in a few days. At the end of four rainy days, it was great to see Matt and his friend Lee, but it would make saying good-bye again harder in a few days. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Not to worry, a few days turned into four weeks as we watched Matthew saunter up the coast, leaving a year's worth of rain and destruction in his path. The Upper Chesapeake was spared but many of the marinas we use in the Carolinas and Georgia suffered damage that will impact our travel. Indeed, the water inland had put a pause on our departure, it all had to get out to sea before we can get under bridges. The Great Dismal Swamp is now closed until spring. More waiting followed, but we were grateful to be safe and sad for those affected. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">We have learned that joy and sorrow are both short lived and so on Monday, October 24, yes, October 24, we cast off with beautiful skies and wind at our back, having waited until there were better reports down south and a local weather window presented itself. In short order we've put Solomon's Island, MD, Deltaville, VA, and Portsmouth, VA, behind us. Winds have been brisk and we are traveling about 50 miles a day in a pack of a dozen or more boats each day. Marina reservations are hard to get because there are so many boats pent up ready to move south. On Thursday we entered the Intercoastal Water Way and began the 1300 mile journey to Miami. We anticipated storm debris in the waterway but that wasn't a problem. Taking the Virginia Cut was our only option. It was a bit wild getting into Coinjock marina and we were just about the last in for the night.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Recent reports are that water levels are about back to normal and so far, so good. We have tickled a few bridges that read 64' with our antenna, but today we did the same at the Coinjock Bridge at 65' (?). Today we docked early at Alligator River Marina and have staged for a fifty mile run to Bellhaven and Dowry Creek Marina. The day will involve two bridges that have settled to 64 feet so we will celebrate when we get under the last one!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Where are our photos, you ask? Our waters have been too rough and rolly-polly for photography but the trip is not over yet. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Things to celebrate: we reconnected with Bill and Jeanie on <em>Nemo</em> our second day out, friends from 2011. In Portsmouth ran into the folks from <em>Bolero</em> who we will see again in Miami. We are traveling with Baltimore/Miami friends Jack and Jackie on <em>Serenity</em>, if just by email this week. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">And it is not lost on us how fortunate we are to be able to cruise like this and that our friends and family were concerned about us before and after Hurricane Matthew. Things happen for a reason, including battery failure. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"></span><br />Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-23819364157563758652015-05-02T08:44:00.001-04:002015-05-02T08:44:56.954-04:00Mile Marker Zero: The Push for Home. The weather in the beginning of our trip was noteworthy, absolutely gorgeous and tides were favorable for each day's run. We made five runs on the ocean, enough to convince us we are fairly done with the Intercoastal Waterway. I credit my Captain for careful planning around the natural factors to insure good passages. We passed through Georgia and South Carolina at a steady pace, no days off. It grew cooler (can't say cold) each day and we were wishing the sun rose earlier to allow for longer runs. The weather was also a bit threatening, building to foggy and windy the time we reached the South Carolina border.<br />
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It's a tough decision to make but we opted out of Charleston again this year. Pulling in there meant staying many days, it's so hard to leave Charleston. But staying just south of the city at St. John's Marina and leaving at first light allows us to make the first morning bridge in Elliot's Cut, cross the Charleston inlet at "high enough" tide to pass through Isle of Palms and all of the shoaling that follows. The weather was really lousy but we cleared Mc Clellanville and made Georgetown on a Sunday night after hours. The boat ahead of us caught our lines and we had a safe but rainy rest for the night, no restaurant or tour of town.<br />
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Methodically we trudged through the ICW up to North Carolina. Our final day involved a half light departure from St. James Marina in order to run the Cape Fear River at the closest we could come to Slack tide. Once back in the ICW the currents reversed to we we slowed down considerably. Arriving at Seapath Path Yacht Club mid afternoon was exciting for many reasons. Overconfident we had our slip in sight in this small creek, we ran aground, just as the Dockmaster radioed us to watch the shoaling in the middle. Sailors take note, the deeper water is practically in the marsh grass on the south side so hug the greens on your approach. Once secure we turned our attention to a week on land. We had a rode trip to Washington DC on our calendar and we were thrilled to have made our deadline and tied up in a safe, familiar marina.<br />
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Another bonus to our locations was getting a rental car and connecting over dinner with a NJ friend, Sharon and her delightful husband Bert. It was just the social boost we needed. Before heading north we visited Fran's Sewing Circle, owned by the sister of my oldest friend. You guessed it, Fran and staff helped me plan and cut a quilt, to be known as my North Carolina Beach House quilt. Great shop, great friends, great town. Once on our list for possible retirement homes, Willmington/Wrightsville Beach lost out because we don't like to sail the sounds.<br />
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We enjoyed our family for a brief twenty four hours, more planning and driving than time for hugs with the kids, and made our way back on April 20th. We took a lunch break in Richmond at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts to see an exhibit of flower paintings that ended with works by Monet, Manet, and Van Gooh. Never let it be said that my captain sits still or that he passes up an opportunity.<br />
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It rained a good deal the week we were on land and the winds picked up, kicking up the ocean again. We could not see it laying down any time soon so we scratched a run to Beaufort by ocean and split the distance by stopping in Swansborro. We made Beaufort by eleven A.M. and did not hit the Atlantic Beach Bridge for the first time in six trips. We thoroughly enjoyed town but missed dinner at the Beaufort Grocery as there was a private party taking place. It seems to be Wine Festival season, we are bumping into it everywhere. We made the usual runs to River Dunes, Dowry Creek (clinked at Wilkerson) and Coinjock, fighting weather and winds on the Albamarle up to 26 knots. Curritick Sound was slightly better. There was lots of relief to pull into Norfolk for what we thought would be five safe days during a nor'easter, and we planned our stay with lots of anticipation. However, the Dockmaster informed us we couldn't stay that long as he had a Looper Rendezvous booked there all weekend. Really?<br />
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So, after studying the weather all evening, we made the decision to move on to Cape Charles while we could, Saturday having predicted winds of 35 knots. Make way while you can folks, right? We connected with Bruce and Jeannie on Main Break at their new marina, laughed until dark, and bid them good-bye as we elected to cast off at high tide, seven A.M. for Deltaville. Here we are waiting for the end of this ugly (but not as ugly as predicted) storm, it's Solomoms Island on Sunday, Monday its dinner with Paul and Anita in Annapolis, and Tuesday we will be back in Rock Hall.<br />
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We left Miami on March 30 and had four weather days and a week off for a family event. If we dock at home on May 5 as planned, the trip will have taken 28 days of travel, only two of which did we sail. We were a few weeks ahead of the snowbird pack, running with mostly delivery captains. The weather was colder than we enjoy as we got north and it is crab pot season now. But, when it's time to leave, we never dally around, we make for home and don't look back, forget the "journey" philosophy we usually embrace. Still we enjoyed each day of our return trip and we had no mechanical trouble, no caught-in-a-storm moment, just a successful 1300 mile run dotted with a few visits with friends along the way. Time to focus on Delaware Beaches and the grandkids, enjoy spring sailing on the Chesapeake and plan the next trip.<br />
<img src="webkit-fake-url://4864cd9f-9752-4470-ba6e-402196fb8657/imagejpeg" />Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-58620319156299438222015-04-08T10:58:00.001-04:002015-05-02T07:05:24.111-04:00Homeward BoundSome have asked what we did all winter, and now it's time to leave Miami. Well, we think we have become true Grove-ites, immersed in everyday life with a simple routine. Rick played his banjo(s), I quilted, and we drove to destinations like Key West, Sanibel and Key Largo. Good friends Bill and Laurel were in Florida for two month just an hour south so we saw them a few times. We became members of Fairchild Gardens and enjoyed photography of the new Chihuly installation. And then there were endless boat shows, festivals, art fairs, and quilt shops. Yes, a dozen quilt shops and the Lauderdale Quilt Expo. We caught the Frida Kahlo Exhibit in Lauderdale another time and we ate our way through Sunday's in local restaurants. Need I say, we went to the beaches at least once a week. Once we returned to Miami in the end of January, time flew.<br />
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Departure was bittersweet, we were torn between wanting to stay and needing to go- but on March 30 we cast off for home. A weather window opened up and we took the opportunity to leave Dinner Key and head north. We felt we were slightly ahead of the pack but not so early that the Bay would be cold when we arrived. We have family obligations up north, we miss our kids and their families, and it is almost Beach Season in Delaware.<br />
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It became apparent that the boat bow was pointed high, that we were overloaded in our stern. Remember all those quilt shops? The spinnaker, extra duffles full of off season clothes and quilt fabric, lots of fabric from each store, are now stowed with the sewing machine in the center of the boat. It appears to have made a significant difference in our getting under bridges.<br />
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Tuesday we left Miami through Government Cut to the ocean; we ran in the Gulf Stream on a calm sea, making as much as 9.4 knots. Our destination was Old Port Cove Marina on Lake Worth, Palm Beach, where just slips down we reconnected with the Simons on their beautiful new boat. It was a quick catch up Wednesday morning before we headed back out the Lake Worth inlet and north to Ft. Pierce for an unremarkable day. The Ft Pierce City Marina is greatly expanded but fairly empty right now. We had reservations about this inlet because there is a sunken barge below the surface, but it was easy to traverse, well marked and simple to do. There were fewer boats in this inlet, more courteous and less flashy than our rough exit out of Palm Beach!<br />
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On Thursday morning we exited the inlet again and headed to Cape Canaveral inlet. The day was grey and threatening but the rain held off. We were not fans of the Cape Marina but the location allowed us to catch the first bridge opening before the Canaveral Canal Lock that opens on demand. Note we had power trouble here, 135 volts coming into the boat, a situation the staff said they would look into. Bonus, we were treated to a pod of dolphins as we entered the canal, and we locked through with a pair of manatees. It was three days of 1-2 foot waves and no wind, I mean no wind. We were beyond disappointed to not sail as there are days ahead where we will have to motor. <br />
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Friday was our first day on the Intercostal Waterway and it was a reminder as to why we have moved to the ocean. It was Good Friday, spring break, the weekend, 85 degrees and anyone who owned a water craft was out, qualified or not. It was also our first day of dreaded bridges. We had two scary moments, the first at the Matanzas River, green marker 81A, where we bumped hard in four feet of water. Then, as winds picked up and rain threatened we approached the mooring field south of St. Augustine, and we ran out of water! Both times Rick powered off the lumps and we were safe, but we were disappointed not to know about the shoals in advance. Boat US and the Coast Guard were aware of both issues we reported, yet we had not heard of any warnings. We made it to Camachee Cove Marina before the rain hit. The current at low tide rips through there until you get to the marina channel. Good news, no need to wash the boat down as it poured overnight. We borrowed a loaner car, hit a quilt shop and a grocery store before crashing for the night. Sunday was Easter so we called a cab to take us to the Cathedral of St Augustine and later, brunch at the Floridian (the best!) The cathedral celebrated 132 years in St. Augustine and reopening after a full renovation. It's the oldest parish in the country, founded in 1595. The church was beautiful as was mass.<br />
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From St. Augustine we made it all the way to Fernandina Beach, our last stop in Florida. We were in early enough to get to another quilt store and walk around town. (Do you see a pattern here?) The Marina is being dredges so there are few slips to be had right now. We finished Florida in just a week. This morning winds were negligible as we motored out of the St. Marys River inlet, seas were predicted to be 2-4 feet. This twenty mile run felt longer because we had higher waves and fog. The gift of the day, Rick spotted a four foot across sea turtle. By the time we came into St. Simons inlet we were beat, hungry and ready for land. Again, no sailing, but we are in Georgia at Morningside Marina!<br />
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A note about the bridges: we have run with tides in our favor very successfully and have only clinked on one bridge. We were pushing our luck and the bridge is a foot low. Looks like our weight redistribution was worth the inconvenience in the salon. We are headed inside now for a week so there's no sailing on the horizon. We are moving daily as insurance against weather that would hold us up. Today we will stay up the Midway River at Sunburry Crab Company. Tomorrow, Hilton Head, totally opposite experiences.<br />
<br />Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-58058631152253798202015-02-06T00:01:00.001-05:002015-02-06T08:43:45.054-05:00Back in Miami! <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Two months on land in Delaware were great. We saw most of our family and wrapped up a final (we hope) "new house" issue. The holidays were lovely, they passed too quickly, but everything does these days. Winter weather threatened but ultimately spared us and before you knew it, the New Year came. We welcomed a new grandson on January 13 and once we met him on January 15, then hit the highway for Miami! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Three days on the road- ouch. We will retract any complaints about the waterways- just get us out of the car! Our boat was a welcome sight and the first week here in Coconut Grove temps were in the 80s, and we had no complaints. After all, the weather is why we come here, first and foremost. Then there's the proximity to the Bahamas. We spent lazy days on Key Biscayne at the state park the first week, avoiding the South Beach crowds. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But the fronts that have affected the weather up north are partly responsible for our drop in temps now, though we are not wearing jackets or shoveling snow. We had our first rain today, not bad for three weeks. Our biggest issue has been strong winds. Those winds kept us in our slip in 2012 until April and we hope not to have a repeat season. Some sailors have crossed over, some plan to on Monday, but we think we'll wait until the front cycle, every three days, breaks. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So what do we do all day? Well, we allow for one maintenance task a day. The boat could be an all day project but we have learned to let go of a lot in favor of being outside. Susan is back to walking daily, and Coconut Grove is a good location to walk everywhere including for groceries. Since we have limited storage, we buy groceries every other day. Again, no complaints, we have a Fresh Market store just past the marina. Susan is quilting daily, too. Rick has a new travel guitar, a small Martin, and he has a rebuilt banjo arriving tomorrow. With these hobbies we have connected with other boaters, and then there always dinners out in the Grove and conversations on the dock to pass the days. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is a very active Cruisers Net at 9 AM each morning on our VHS radio. It's full of information and ways to connect with other cruisers in the marina and anchorage. They also share what's going on around town, things for boaters to do, networking of sorts. That's where we </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">learned there was a new Dale Chihuly glass installation at the Fairchild Gardens so we got ourselves over there as quick as possible. Two weeks ago the Gardens hosted a Chocolate Festival, it was 80 degrees out and sunny, perfect for viewing the Chihuly glass. We opted not to bring our camera as it's just too hard to get good shots when there are crowds in the way. We just enjoyed the exhibit but quickly returned midweek to get some photographs. Fairchild offered a class on photographing Chihuly at night so we've signed up for mid -February, we can't wait. The Garden has hosted Chihuly work before but for this exhibit, all the work is new, though if you've seen his work before, it feels familiar. We never tire of Dale Chihuly or the Fairchild Gardens, complete with the butterfly house. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Monday we drove down to the Biscayne National Park headquarters in Homestead for two purposes. First, there was an exhibit of art quilts focused on our changing planet. Second, we wanted to get a map of places to snorkel, sunken boats and reefs in Key Biscayne Bay. We got our map, some local advice, and enjoyed the free quilt exhibit. The snorkeling will also have to wait for winds to subside. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This week we will spend two days at the Miami Boat show. A few classes have our interest and we want to see what's new in navigation systems. Promise will be five years old in May so we are curious about things we should replace or upgrade. Then there's always the thrill of new boats! </span><br />
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-75273389244935473332014-11-19T10:29:00.000-05:002015-02-05T22:54:39.370-05:00Home in Two States! <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Traversing the ICW in Florida became a ho-hum adventure. We love the mansions that dot the shore lines, but when they are set in narrow channels with bulkheads, even our own wake creates a ricochet effect we tired of. Sure we saw "a pony upon a boat" south of Daytona Beach and dolphins and manatees kept us company, but we grew destination orientated. We spent two nights in Melbourne, Fl, for rain and wind, followed by two nights in New Smyrna Beach. We tried the newly expanded marina in Ft. Pierce, which is where we should have gone outside and blown down to Miami. Instead we opted for a single night in Old Port Cove Marina and Resort in Palm Beach, right on Lake Worth where we have anchored in the past. Nice find, we would recommend it, even if you split your wait time with the Lake. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From there we made what I consider one of those "I'm not-doing-that-again" decisions. Temperatures were in the high eighties, we couldn't sail any of our old haunts, and we elected to clear the final 22 bridges in ten hours. It would have been a shorter day if two of the bridges had not had mechanical difficulties. Flagler Bridge is now opening only once an hour at quarter past. After an hours wait there, we waited more than an hour for the next bridge to be opened manually and under duress. This waiting always results in us fighting current and trying to hold our position, doing donuts or sailing back up stream and lapping the waterway until the tender says we may pass through. This year we added the stress of paddle boarders crossing the waterway at Boca Resort, a service the resort should not provide! But all ended well, we made Lauderdale by 5:15, had a cheap dinner on A1A across from the beach, and crashed before our last day on the water. This trip it is the admiral who is saying, "No more ICW. Seen it, been there, give me ocean sailing next year." </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our run to Miami was as uneventful as this whole trip was. Sadly, we had 4-5 knot winds, 4 foot seas and we were forced to motor all the way. The good news is that we were safely tied in our new slip in Coconut Grove about 1 PM and we were ahead of</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> the cold front expected Friday. We made our November 15 goal by two days and had a safe, simple passage. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So, from Miami it was a two day drive home to Delaware for family time. It was hard to leave that tropical feel when you knew it will be so cold up north but we will enjoy the family and look forward to Miami after the New Year. Happy holidays to all and best wishes for fair winds and safe crossings to our sailing friends. We will see you in the Bahamas!</span></div>
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-23894640156572045492014-11-05T20:43:00.000-05:002014-11-09T11:57:49.865-05:00An Alligator in Every Pond Before Florida. Mile Marker 803<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The original plan for the rest of this trip was modest progress, safe plans, and none of the fatigue or risk that a long day presents. But . . . </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Currents were so good we skipped Port Royal and moved to Hilton Head. I know the weather up north is chilling and you've had some rains, we do follow the rest of the country. But our weather has been amazing. We ran the rest of South Carolina and Georgia in the 80s. We broke a 90 degree record in Hilton Head where we took a two day break just because. It was there we began to see alligators sunning themselves, some in the company of turtles, a fact I can't reconcile. We keep an eye open as they sit on the bank with their mouths open, you can't miss them. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">We moved to Isle of Hope, Georgia, Sunbury Crab Company, St. Simon and Jekyll Island in successful hops. That required careful planning to make bridges with 6-8 foot tide swings, all successful until that last bridge before St. Simons! You guessed it, no bridge board going south, 63 feet going north. Normally, we would sail for the three hours we needed to wait; this year we had zero wind, but we waited anyhow. We were feeling really good about our transit of Mud River, but this long 11 hour day burst our bubble. Good news, we had a safe face dock, free muffins and a free morning newspaper delivered to the boat at Morning Star for the two day blow (45 mile gusts.) Following the cold front we moved just six miles to Jekyll. Check, safe in skinny water in Jekyll Creek, 7-8 feet at mid-tide on November 2. The state of Georgia, accomplished. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">We are beginning to realize we should really keep moving in good weather. Something about the date on the calendar upped our motivation. We ran 59 miles to Fernandina, Florida, then the next day about the same to St. Augustine. We gave up visiting familiar haunts in order to prepare for the next days ahead as we can see weather turning, too. The new experiences here were Nana Theresa's Bakery in Fernandina (amazing!) and Comanche Cove Marina before the Vilano Beach/Uniso Bridge (mile 775) just before St. Augustine (safe in and out so we could wait for better tides in the morning.)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">One of our biggest disappointments on this trip is the fact we have made few new friends or cruising companions. We are just enough ahead of the pack that days like today we sailed alone, not a boat ahead of us or behind us. But that's OK, our eyes are on the charts to Miami (just a week away,) Windfinder Pro and the Weather Channel. We can see weather ahead on Sunday so we plan to be in spend two days in Melbourne until it blows out. There is not such a huge tide swing here in the Daytona area (18 inches.) Talk on the dock is that the state of Florida has remeasured all the bridges and they read accurately now. We shall see. Tomorrow we don't leave until noon in order to slip under the next bridge and then run with the ebb tide all the way to New Smyrna. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dataw Island, SC, is a lovely golf community on an old cotton plantation. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The properties, like those on Hilton Head, are dotted with ponds and marshes. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Every pond has a resident alligator. Look hard near the yellow stake. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">His close up follows. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-26281404517546415802014-10-25T17:55:00.001-04:002014-11-05T16:19:18.255-05:00Pluff Mud and South Carolina. Mile Marker 521<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the past two weeks we have made short work of North Carolina. There have been a few cold mornings and some wind as little cold fronts have moved through one after another. We love the Waccamaw River and it was the first taste of fall we have seen. We stopped in Georgetown but had to stay at the Georgetown Landing Marina, a bit out of town. It was the weekend of the Wooden Boat Festival so when in Rome . . .</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We have a love-hate relationship with South Carolina. Her vistas are beautiful, the food is fabulous in every town, even more than fabulous in Charleston, and the weather is why we head south in the winter. But traveling her waterways can be tricky so the glow wears off the Palmettos as we move down the ICW. It is always more challenging in the fall as the days are so much shorter. One can travel twice as far in a day in the spring. This trip we have learned a few tricks from other cruises to help us feel more favorable about the South Carolina portion of the ICW. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">In recent weeks we have taken two day breaks in the likes of Georgetown and Dataw Island, not to mention Charleston. Driving those reservations were the timing of tides and the fact we could not get into our favorite marinas. A new experience for us was to stop in McClellenville, a side creek off the ICW, home to many shrimp boats and little else but the Leland Oil Company, which is where we tied up for the night. It was a Sunday so the only restaurant/fish market was closed. They have three available spots on the fuel dock, if you can get in the creek for skinny water. We made it but did not run the air at night as we felt low tide at midnight would plug up our systems. One other boat left with us at dawn, the third boat left later and was stuck at the mouth of the creek. Our goal was to get through the Breeches Inlet (said to be as low as three feet at low tide) at high tide so we took a slip at Isle of Palms for the night, departing with the right tide at dawn again. What we learned from this trip was to pay the dock fee but only stay the four hours needed to make high tide, getting us to Charleston earlier and avoiding this overnight stop.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">It was only eleven miles into Charleston, but we didn't get right in. First of all, we had to stay at the Charleston Maritime Center on the Cooper River with its reputation for a much more rolly ride than if we were on the Ashley River. Then our slip was not empty, like "your room's not ready, sir," so we sailed around for two hours. All's well that ends well, we had three lovely days and nights in Charleston. I can't say the rock and roll was much worse than anywhere else; it was water taxi and tour boat wakes that got us, not the cruise ships or river traffic. The location is very walkable to everything we like in town, including groceries, and we met new sailors and docked next to someone from our home port!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">One of our new connections was an experienced cruiser and editor of Cruiser's Net, Larry Dorminy. He suggested that instead of sweating the Asapoo-Coosaw Cutoff which is notorious for shoaling, we turn left/south on the Ashapoo River. Seas were calm, sun was bright </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">and we arrived at Fenwick [Cut] about 2:30 or a couple of hours before low. We motored out and down the Ashepoo in calm seaway, went below the Combahee Bank and across St Helena Sound all the way to green 11 below Pelican Bank and found 25-30 ft of water to turn up Morgan Creek to Dataw Marina. That saved us from having to motor up the ICW and then crossing at Parrot Creek.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">There is no wind today but the skies are gorgeous. We have just used the day for chores and to see the golf community here on Dataw by golf cart. Tomorrow we venture to Port Royal Landing south of Beaufort, SC, to stage ourselves for mid-tide on the next bridge. Then its into Hilton Head for two days, and then Georgia. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Before we started cruising we followed the blogs of others who made the trip before us. It has been very helpful. We hope that passing on our experiences is helpful to others as well. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our traveling companions, a trio of </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our traveling companions on the Ashapoo River; </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Note the birds on his rig. </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">docked at the end of our pier. </span></td></tr>
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<br />Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-22003116538829743522014-10-11T14:48:00.000-04:002014-10-11T17:16:37.745-04:00King Tides. Mile Marker 283<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Once again, you can't count on good planning to make the day perfect. You must rely on patience and flexibility. Or so we are learning in large measure. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Yesterday we had to face the Atlantic Bridge just past Morehead City, but facing it meant lapping the ICW for an hour and a quarter until the bridge boards read 64 feet. Why you ask? They call it a King Tide, the highest of the year, compounded with wind driven water. Not wanting to dock in the dark, we shortened our run for the day and tried Casper's Marina in Swansboro. Getting close to the marina was tricky, the channel was full of fishermen in small boats- anchored IN the channel! We were not the first to hail the Coast guard for assistance. A tug and barge preceded us and later we met a power boat captain who said he heard a call on the radio earlier in the day. Once tied up, we walked to town and exhausted it in less than an hour. Back on the boat we spent the night rocking from multiple boats going by or coming and going to fish. The take away here is Casper's is a bargain at a dollar a foot and it breaks up the run to Wrightsville Beach, but you have to "settle" for the night. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But King Tides need a few days to fall off so today we planned our departure to put us at the Highway Bridge, Mile Marker 252, two hours after high tide. Fate helped us on this one. We were hung up over an hour at the Onslow Swing Bridge, mile 240, due to maintenance. "It'll be just a bit, captain." </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This was the perfect time for Susan to practice donuts and figure eights, practice waiting for a bridge, and so that's just what we did. Once we reached the Highway Bridge we slid under it at 64 1/2 feet. The down side of this success was that we couldn't make Wrightsville Beach at Seapath before seven or eight o'clock so we tried a new option, Harbour Village Marina at Mile Marker 267. Easy in, nice protection, we expected a good night's sleep before a simple day of two swing bridges into Sea Path at Wrightsville Beach. Tied for favorite thing about today: Harbour Village Marina, or the huge brown bear we saw running through the marshes about noontime. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We got the sleep we craved, good thing, too. Three hours on the waterway felt much longer today. We had strong winds and our bridge timing was way off. Traffic had been crazy before the Wrightsville Bridge but after that one o'clock opening, hell broke loose! There were three sail and one cruiser under the bridge PLUS at least twenty five small boats, paddle boarders and kaiaks all holding while someone swam across the waterway. Add wind and current and you have a very unsafe situation. The airways were jammed, you couldn't get the Coast Guard to respond and we were really tense. We learned later it was the third annual fundraiser called Swim the Loop (around the island facing our marina.) Thirty minutes later the race ended (apparently this had been going on for hours) and we followed the nonresponsive Coast Guard into our channel and our slip. Enough work for today! No amount of funds could make up for the tragedy that could have happened on the water today. We will protest the poor management of this race on behalf of safe boaters everywhere. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-703343934661914962014-10-08T00:24:00.000-04:002014-10-08T00:31:09.231-04:00Thank you Beaufort, NC<br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We sailed into Beaufort a week ago for a two night stay. By now we should have made Charleston, SC, but that wasn't in the cards. Rick's injury turned out to be more serious than we thought so we are still in Beaufort, NC., grateful for all the help we have had here. It's a nice town with restaurants and lots of places to walk (if you are up to it.) We love the boardwalk, the businesses, the gingerbread trimmed house, and of course, the water views. <span style="font-family: Arial;">We've enjoyed Beaufort yet again, but it is time to move on!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">While we watch the winds and tides in order to leave, we want to thank the men at the Town Dock Marina. <span id="goog_1273871106"></span><span id="goog_1273871107"></span>They were there when Rick fell off the dock and they've been there with concern and help, not to mention advice and a loaner car for the past week. They are among the best dockhands on the ICW, making this tricky current docking as easy as possible. It's hard to know what to do for medical help in a strange place but we were very lucky here. We highly recommend the Moore Orthopedic and Sports Medicine Group in Morehead City as they took good care of Rick and assured us he could travel when he felt up to it. </span><br />
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the Blessing of the Fleet<br />
Morehead City Seafood Festival</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love this new bsiness in town! So clever,<br />
everyone raves about the tours.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rick's Favorite Restaurants<br />
Beaufort Grocery<br />
Blue Moon Bistro</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-25033721947525838132014-10-01T16:27:00.000-04:002014-10-07T23:34:17.815-04:00Welcome to the Crystal Coast. Beaufort, NC Mile Marker 202<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was the most perfect weather day when we woke on Tuesday morning in Grace Harbor. It was seventy degrees when we cast off, no need to clean the windows of dew or fog, and there was the freshest North Carolina air we have ever experienced. The sun was bright, maybe a little too bright and winds were moderate all day. What happens when all these conditions are present? You get crystals sparkling on the water all day and a nice run into Beaufort. We only had two bridges to address Tuesday. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">We have entered the Crystal Coast, the area from Beaufort to Swansboro (our next destination,) know for its beautiful beaches and wild ponies. This trip we took the Rustle Slough Cut to the Railroad Bridge and entered Town Creek the back way. Nice, we'll do that any time over the trip around Radio island sticking out into the inlet. Captain did a good job getting us in here with careful timing for a slack tide and slow current for docking. Winds were light so it was a piece of cake to get into Town Dock. It's a bit intimidating to be here as our dock mates are 75-150 feet long, mostly manned by uniformed delivery captains and crews who clean and maintain the boats impeccably. Remember it is mega yachts first, sport fish and cruisers/trawlers second and sailboats third or last; we are ahead of the pack so we are out of place in the flotilla heading south. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">But, we have to do our own chores. We split the tasks between Tuesday and today, taking a day for rest and to visit familiar haunts. However, it looks like we are here at least another day. While setting up to wash the boat and fill water tanks, the captain fell off the dock! The minor event did result in a pulled hamstring. Can you say rest, ice, and another day in Beaufort? </span>Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-9586597071355133242014-09-30T07:07:00.000-04:002014-09-30T07:24:49.320-04:00Clink, Clank. Mile Marker 173<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is it! We are into the Intercoastal Waterway. Our stay at Coinjock was uneventful, easy landing, easy departure. So far winds have been just right, a little to fill the sails, not enough to challenge docking. Snd yes, we are traveling with snapping shrimp though we hardly notice them now. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We knew Sunday would be a stressor, it was our day to run the Wilkerson Bridge. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We cleared the Alligator Swing Bridge by eleven or so, but not until the operator had trouble opening and closing the bridge. It should be high on NC list of bridges to replace. Signs on the Alligator River made us hopeful this 64 foot bridge was of little concern- but our confidence got ahead of us. We "clinked" the antenna on the Fairfield Bridge about six miles before the Wilkerson Bridge. A boat ahead of us radioed back that he read 63.5' on the Wilkerson bridge boards and we could see that our binoculars. So . . . The admiral went below, drained the starboard water tank, moved anything moveable like electric cords and the bow sprit to the port bow area, and the captain swung the boom to port and lashed the dingy to the port rails. We hiked out on the deck as far as possible, cut the engine, and drifted under the Wilkerson with a "clank" on each girder. All instruments made it in tact, better than our nerves. It was time for a quiet night at Dowry Creek Marina. The bonus for our day on the Alligator River Pungo River Canal was our first sighting of a bald eagle. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sunday we made an easy run to River Dunes The consistent winds from the north have piled water up under bridges and in towns that may not otherwise be tidal. I'm not sure how that leaves us but for now we will move cautiously and hope for the best. Otherwise the weather is fabulous, we highly recommend skipping the boat show and enjoying this trip ahead do the pack. </span><br />
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<br />Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-17976840669553502722014-09-26T16:33:00.003-04:002014-09-26T16:34:17.612-04:00Cockpit Inclosure? Priceless!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sometimes, it doesn't help to over plan and have grand expectations, especially if weather is part of the equation. We spent two over cast days in Oxford, sailed over to Solomon's Island, then beat into wind and waves to visit Tangier Island.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nostalgia drew us back to Tangier, but reality replaced our romantic memories of this small island on the Eastern Shore. The population is down to less than 450 people and the crabbing has shut down early this season. In just an hour we had walked most of town and had dinner in the small <em>Fisherman's Corner Restaurant. </em>The desolation is at once charming and sad, an idyllic way of life that may disappear with the island as the Bay reclaims it. In just the six years since we first found the island, she has visibly sunk and shrank. No new watermen commit to this life style anymore, there is no one to carry on the legacy and the fight to save the island.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The trip from Tangier to the Tides on the Eastern Shore was bumpy and breezy, and after two days at the Tides, we elected to make a run down the Eastern Shore in a strong NE wind at our back. Less than an hour down the Rappahannock River with gusts to 25 knots, we remembered we had an enclosure to put up! the ten minute pause in our travel and we were warm and dry. The cost of an enclosure, priceless on a run like this. You guessed it, we had growlers and six foot waves, steady winds of 15 degrees, gusts to 25 all day. It was a really grey, nasty day. We tried to get ahead of the rain and high winds predicted for Wednesday, and we were successful. After days of limited phone and internet service, enough weather to deserve a reward, we decided to stay here in Norfolk for three nights until winds settled down. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Sadly, we have also elected to scrap our plans for the Dismal Swamp. Talk of submerged logs and a large outbreak of duckweed to clog your filters says Virginia cut to us. Friday morning we depart. The weather looks good though we are worried these northerly winds pushing too much wind into the Wilkerson Bridge, our first challenge of the trip! </span><br />
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<strong>TANGIER ISLAND</strong></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The waitress at dinner invited us to </span><br />
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-75084941103436967452014-09-17T20:52:00.002-04:002014-09-17T20:52:33.547-04:00On a Clear Day<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On a clear day you can see half way down the Bay, or so it seems. We left Osprey Point about 9:30 am and to our disappointment we had little wind to fill our sails. It was our grand scheme to sail the full length of he Bay, no motoring this trip. Well, greater plans than this have failed many a sailor before us so with gratitude for a nice day, we motored over to Oxford. The waters were full of really large ships today, perhaps because yesterday was really windy, or maybe its because ships have been unable to get into Baltimore for a week due to the Star Spangled Celebration this past week. This traffic made Bay south of the Annapolis Bay Bridge really roly-poly! We could see a lone tall ship under full sail in the direction of Baltimore but most of the ships left Baltimore yesterday, limiting our chances of seeing another. There was little else to tell about the day except that it went smoothly and about seven hours later we were docked at Campbell's Boatyard for the night. We cooked aboard and will enjoy the solitude here on Oxford Town Creek off the Tred Avon River tonight. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Initially we were disappointed that the Osprey had fledged and migrated south off Swan creek, our home port, but they are still on the nests on Town Creek. In the morning we will borrow bikes and ride to town for some photographs. With luck, the first thing we'll capture are those Osprey.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Leaning Tower of the Chesapeake</span><br />
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-35697976298997585162014-09-16T22:13:00.000-04:002014-09-16T23:12:12.650-04:00'Something 'bout a boat . . .<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Five years ago we made a pact, to live our dream instead if dreaming our life. To that end, we retired, divested ourselves of our house and all that makes a home. No longer in need of professional wardrobes, we burned our socks and donated the rest of our clothes, moved aboard <i>Promise</i>, and set sail for Jimmy Buffet adventures. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">During the next few years we sailed in storm and splendor, and met many fine people in very port and anchorage. We rarely missed the comforts of home, but always missed our family. We committed ourselves to finding the perfect place to live that would give us closer visits with our sons and grandchildren, but perfect meant it couldn't be too hot or cold, needed to be near water, and it had to be a viable town. Luck brought us to Lewes, Delaware, and it is there we built a home and reconnected with family and friends over the last year. Cape Henlopen protects us from severe weather swings (OK, not so much this winter) and the beaches feel familiar, like our Jersey Shore memories. The last twelve months have been wonderful, except, we missed the boat. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There's something 'bout a boat, gives a man hope (Jimmy Buffet.) <i>Promise</i> spent six months on the hard. By the time we launched in mid-summer, winds were stagnant as they are in July and August and the temperature on the Bay soared, and given the choice of having the kids and their kids or friends to Lewes and going to the boat, family and friends always won out. We could feel our days numbered in their busy lives so we took advantage. of every each day we had with people we love. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And so <i>Promise</i> waited, and the wait was worth it. Rick sailed the Maryland Governors Cup Race on August 1 & 2, from Annapolis to St. Mary's up the Potomac. The overnight race was a once in a lifetime adventure for Rick and four friends who battled strong winds and six foot waves. They flew through the storm and finished around 5:30 AM. Satisfied they had finished, tired and wet from the adventure, the crew sailed on to Solomon's for rest. It was mid-afternoon when they learned that <i>Promise</i> had won her class and won with corrected time! Check that one off the bucket list- captain and crew should be very proud, indeed. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But now it is time to do some serious cruising, short sails and a big race behind us. We have buttoned up the house, hitched a rental ride to Rock Hall and loaded the boat with supplies for a trip south. The day was full of checklists, filling tanks, stowing gear and getting the dingy on board. We depart in the morning for Oxford, Maryland, a forty mile run down the Chesapeake Bay. A North, then East wind and crisp September weather will make for a pleasant sail. This time around, we have mixed feeling as we are detaching from a new life in Lewes and our family and friends . . . but there's something about a boat. </span><br />
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Rick at the helm at the start of the race</div>
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The <em>Pride of Baltimore </em>at the Annapolis start</div>
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-75522441606032223312013-09-05T14:29:00.000-04:002013-09-05T14:29:10.544-04:00Fall Comes to the Chesapeake
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">September 3, 2013</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">A couple of weeks ago I was awakened by a small flock of
geese honking noisily as they circled “The Haven” in Swan Creek just west of
our marina.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While the temperatures
continue to hover near the 90’s in the afternoons the telltale signs of fall
are approaching. Last week we anchored for a couple of nights in a protected
cove of the Magothy River. Each morning a building flock of Tree Swallows
flitted between our mast and spreaders and those of another boat anchored
nearby. By the second morning they literally covered our superstructure and
fought for landing rights.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The realization of fall’s approach hit home yesterday
afternoon. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As we walked down the docks
another couple on a boat nearby asked if we’d seen the Bald Eagles circle over
the pool this afternoon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I said we’d
missed them, responding with a question, “Are the Ospreys gone?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our eagles typically hide in the woods all summer
until the Osprey’s head south.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sure
enough, their familiar cry was missing at dawn this morning as I sat in the
cockpit with my first cup of coffee waiting for sun to appear.</span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">The cloud cover remains this morning and a north wind precedes
the approaching cold front that is predicted to arrive tomorrow from the upper
Midwest. I don’t know how the Ospreys choose their departure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In previous years I’ve watched parents
encouraging fledglings circle higher and higher in the towering thermals of the
late summer afternoons just before they disappeared.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This year I missed the signs but remember the
ritual.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">A few hours later we took a drive into
Chestertown and leaves from the Remington woods swirled in our truck back
draft. Temperatures are in the sixties at night now, high temps are a
moderating and the <span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">breeze
is picking up. Sad to see summer end, we look forward to fall sailing. </span></span>Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-29464861096615488242013-07-14T23:12:00.002-04:002013-07-14T23:12:12.131-04:00You Can Never Have Enough Light Houses: Up the Bay to Rock Hall, June 21, 2013<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our trip home was sped up, blown along if you will, by a change in the weather and a string of strong storm threats. Sadly, we abandoned our plan to explore the Outer Banks and headed for home- one tropical storm brought us to our senses. Besides, we missed our families. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sailing Pamlico, Albemarle and behind Curritick sounds were classic: choppy, shallow water, strong winds and grey skies. We chose the Virgina Cut, complete with a Prime Rib dinner with sailing friends at Coinjock. Then it was a long day to Norfolk but weather improved and we looked forward to a few days of rest and great restaurants, provisioning and more exploring of this area. Mile zero was behinds us! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But, an eye on all of our weather apps warned us winds were picking up in time for docking in Norfolk, not exactly our best experience as winds howled inside the marina. By the time we settled in for the night it was apparent the best day in the next week was the next one, so with regrets we cancelled our slip commitment, left the dock at seven in the morning and made way to Deltaville. We made great time, riding the tide, and we were able to sail, our goal for the Chesapeake leg of this trip. However, making Deltaville meant hunkering down for three rough days of strong winds and rain. Once the initial storm blew out we still had two more days to wait for favorable tides and winds for the leg to Solomons Island which includes the mouth of the Potomac River, notorious for a mind of its own. One night in Solomon's and we were off for home port. Seas on the Bay ran three to five feet which simply meant we were tired when we reached home but we did manage to sail most of the Bay. June 21, 2013, seems like ages ago. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">It didn't take long for us to need a road trip (or three.) We have visited grandkids and spent a few days in Lewes, DE. Sadly, the winds here have only been sailable on days we have made other commitments. The dog days of summer have set in but I'm sure we will find ways to take Promise out, especially with her new coat of wax and her Intercoastal mustache gone! In the meantime, enjoy these scenes that welcomed us home to the Chesapeake and Rock Hall, Maryland.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nMS8arMNTow/UeNlsy2qkuI/AAAAAAAABPM/VKZjXPzN6Rk/s1600/DSC_0122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="111" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nMS8arMNTow/UeNlsy2qkuI/AAAAAAAABPM/VKZjXPzN6Rk/s400/DSC_0122.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our Baltimre Light just north of the Bay Bridge.</span> </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D9LI_Ge1tFo/UeNl_WYL3FI/AAAAAAAABP0/KD1dPvHjFg8/s1600/DSC_0146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D9LI_Ge1tFo/UeNl_WYL3FI/AAAAAAAABP0/KD1dPvHjFg8/s320/DSC_0146.JPG" width="238" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Green Seven, we are getting close.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eNwpnlLX5kI/UeNm8IHh-UI/AAAAAAAABQU/FpMi0yBl5M0/s1600/photo_1+(4).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eNwpnlLX5kI/UeNm8IHh-UI/AAAAAAAABQU/FpMi0yBl5M0/s320/photo_1+(4).JPG" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The infamous mustache from traveling the Intercoastal Waterway</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span>Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-84975882586138859762013-07-14T12:07:00.002-04:002013-07-14T12:07:09.839-04:00Captains Log Recap: The great trip to home port, Miami to Rock Hall June 21, 2013
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">We
know of several people following our blog<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>who are planning their own trip south in the near future, so I kept
better notes on our trip home this spring to share. We left Dinner Key Marina
at Coconut Grove, Miami, FL on May 8<sup><span style="font-size: x-small;">th</span></sup>, and arrived back at our
“home port” of Rock Hall, MD on June 21.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We’d waited several days after our land trip up to Washington, DC for a
good weather window, and when it finally came we headed up the coast with plans
to stop in Ft. Lauderdale or continue to Lake Worth Inlet if the weather
allowed. As it was we picked up the Gulf Stream and even though there was not
enough wind to fill our sails, we passed Lauderdale by lunch and were through
Lake Worth in time to head to North Lake Worth for an anchorage, our only night
on the hook for the trip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Most
of you know that we are creatures of comfort; we’ve become marina hoppers so
that we can plug in the AC and rest assured that if it blows or storms we’re
safe and sound.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Well,
here’s some details that some of you may be interested in:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Travel
days total:<span style="mso-tab-count: 2;"> </span>44<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Days
we moved the boat<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>24<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Statute
miles covered (approx)<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>1245<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Speed
(avg.)<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>7 mph/6.4
knots<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Engine
hours<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>177<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Diesel
fuel (Gal)<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>227<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Fuel
Costs<span style="mso-tab-count: 3;"> </span>$870<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Fuel
consumption (gal/hr)<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>1.3<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Marina
fees ($1.50-2.50)<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>$4,000<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Was
it a great trip? Yes! But it’s good to be “home” too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-74742104567782068242013-06-08T22:25:00.001-04:002013-07-14T12:01:03.192-04:00Peace, Love, and Fishy, Fishy. Southport, NC. Mile Marker 309<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">For every tropical storm, there is safe port and a new
set of friends with whom we can weather watch. For <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Andrea</i>, we holed up at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Barefoot
Landing Marina</i> (Myrtle Beach, SC) for three uneventful days. Winds were modest,
though the swing bridges did not open because winds surpassed twenty five miles
per hour. The storm headed inland more than expected so we were spared strong
conditions, and while we do not favor <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Barefoot
Landing</i> as a destination, the buildings blocked much of the winds. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Today we cast off at 6:30 am to run two swing and seven
fixed bridges, the “rocks” and “ledges,” and New River, Shallotte, Lockwood’s
Folly Inlets. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mission accomplished,
winds calm at 6-8 knots, and the sun after the storm was welcome. However, five
minutes from our stop in Southport, NC, the winds kicked up to 15-18 knots
because the marina sits across from an inlet and river entrance. The marina
said they had 45 mile an hour sustained winds all day yesterday and today was
nothing. They made docking a breeze though we are a tad exposed on the face
dock. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Southport is an absolutely perfect-for-movie-making kind
of town, and that’s why we wanted to stop here. There are several restaurants,
a cute viable town, a waterfront and tourist stops where movies have been shot,
all on a picturesque walk from the marina. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Every house is cuter than the last, with live
oaks and hydrangeas, gingerbread and picket fences. The most recent movie filmed here was <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Safe Haven</i> in 2012. We played tourist
and loved it, starting with lunch at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Fishy,
Fishy</i>, a fish dive recommended by <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Coastal
Living</i>. This is one stop I would highly recommend. A super marina
experience made the day complete. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r62XeJEjwxU/UbPiOYq7xAI/AAAAAAAABNI/tGmbKQaoXwI/s1600/DSC_0001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r62XeJEjwxU/UbPiOYq7xAI/AAAAAAAABNI/tGmbKQaoXwI/s320/DSC_0001.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the harbor</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KIKGuXbDVJQ/UbPh0LmEWCI/AAAAAAAABM4/88eCgsDKUkI/s1600/DSC_0010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KIKGuXbDVJQ/UbPh0LmEWCI/AAAAAAAABM4/88eCgsDKUkI/s320/DSC_0010.JPG" width="154" /></a><br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DXje-DPwRUQ/UbPiEGdGvTI/AAAAAAAABNA/ISFF8mWklzw/s1600/DSC_0004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DXje-DPwRUQ/UbPiEGdGvTI/AAAAAAAABNA/ISFF8mWklzw/s400/DSC_0004.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The movie company built this Ryan's Port Market at <br />
the harbor, then burned it in the film.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eLoZ7qialjg/UbPjBxlvnSI/AAAAAAAABNs/9TZ4m55yKh4/s1600/DSC_0050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eLoZ7qialjg/UbPjBxlvnSI/AAAAAAAABNs/9TZ4m55yKh4/s200/DSC_0050.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--oUIQ8g-dXA/UbPi_KcFCOI/AAAAAAAABNk/v32A4XF3yUM/s1600/DSC_0039.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="190" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--oUIQ8g-dXA/UbPi_KcFCOI/AAAAAAAABNk/v32A4XF3yUM/s320/DSC_0039.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The roads all lead down to the water.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kUqyvJsYdD0/UbPki1yh_ZI/AAAAAAAABOU/dSItxvIfyoM/s1600/DSC_0063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kUqyvJsYdD0/UbPki1yh_ZI/AAAAAAAABOU/dSItxvIfyoM/s320/DSC_0063.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alex's cottage in <em>Safe Haven.</em> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This bar served as Katie's place of employment in Safe Haven. <br />
The mural was painted for the movie.</td></tr>
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-31927895111845827832013-06-06T16:31:00.002-04:002013-06-08T21:26:40.724-04:00Charleston to Tropical Storm Andrea, Mile Marker 354<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is no place like Charleston, to visit that is. We have never been to Charleston this late in the year so the heat and humidity were a shock to us. It turned out this was the first week of an annual celebration of all the arts, Spoleto and Piccolo Spoleto. The later is a series of events and venues open to the public without big ticket prices, the goal being something for everyone. Because we did not know of the seventeen day festival soon enough, we were unable to secure tickets to music events which appealed to us.We did however enjoy an amazing performance of <em>A Midsummer Night's Dream</em> performed by the the Bristol Old Vic and Handspring Puppet Company, the group who brought you <em>War Horse</em> on Broadway! The play was one of many performances in the recently restored Dock Street Theater, an establishment as old as the city itself. It was magical, as were the free events we took in. The city was crowded with destination Spoleto guests but everyone's spirits were great, awestruck and happy. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">Fortunately we had made restaurant reservations well in advance, and even then we had to settle for second choices or odd times. This trip we ate at Husk (getting too uppity because of their reputation: watch out Sean Brock and staff!,) High Cotton, Magnolias, and the Palmetto Cafe, which was our favorite. Palmetto is in Charleston Place Hotel, owned by the Orient group who coincidentally owns the Inn at Perry's Cabin in St. Michael's near our home port. They were even gracious enough to give us recipes. We found the tempting cuisine and the heat a poor combination, but we were grateful to have this opportunity. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">We had a different quest this visit to Charleston, to seek out examples of art by Jonathan Greene, and we were very successful. We are huge fans of his Gullah interpretations in vibrant colors and low country themes. Charleston Place was decorated with his work, there were tile murals in the City Market Place, the Gibbs Gallery has just completed a showing of his work, and we found the gallery owner who represents him. If you keep your eyes peeled you will see his work in unusual places. Unfortunately we had poor luck with our own photography during this visit because of the crowds, the light always being wrong, the French Quarter being of narrow streets, etc., until we just gave up and enjoyed the views. Sometimes, its a good thing to do. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">We cast off on Sunday, June 2, at first light and mid-tide which we needed to get past Isle of Palms. This was so tricky it made the Georgia stretch look deep! But, we successfully arrived in Georgetown that afternoon for a three day stay based on inaccurate weather forecasts for the next few days. While in Georgetown we rented a car to visit Pauly's Island and spent a day at Brookgreen Gardens. The 900 acre gardens were established by Archer and Anna Hyatt Huntington (1931) in the footprints of four former rice plantations, one of which was the home of Vice President Aaron Burr's daughter and her plantation owner husband. Anna needed a warmer climate as she had tuberculosis, and she was a sculpture of high regard. Hence, the gardens showcased her work and that of prominent sculptures, some quite recent. There are two indoor galleries as well as ponds, outdoor installations, a zoo, and more. Be careful where you walk, native species of all kinds roam free, including venomous snakes, alligators and bear. We enjoyed a trekker trip to a plantation homestead and the Alston cemetery, but we did little walking about! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Across the modern highway is a South Carolina State Park with beachfront on the Atlantic Ocean. Here the Huntingtons built a less than attractive structure (called the Castle?) which survives hurricanes despite being mere yards to the Atlantic's door. In Moorish architecture, the hose was built without a plan, and the owners employed only local labor is its construction.<em> Atalaya</em> means watchtower, and the structure had one, not for protection but to hold the water supply. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">By Wednesday we were anxious to move and to be secure before weather set in. After passing through the "rocks" or ledges we tied up at a face dock at Barefoot Landing. No amenities but several loud restaurants, and other boaters to keep company, waiting out tropical storm <em>Andrea</em>. The forecast is ever changing but our captain says being here until Saturday mid-tide again will get us favorable water for the upcoming inlets. Good time to read, catch up on writing, plan the rest of the trip. We are now competing with fishing tournaments as well as seasonal boaters for out slips and space on the waterway. Arrrrg!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">We will be safe though a little rocky if the storm ever gets here. Do not worry :). </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When we say low water,<br />
we mean low water.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reading the Paper in Detroit<br />
Brookgreen Garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original plantation wall and gate<br />
in Brookgreen Garden</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cemetery Gate<br />
Brookfield</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resurrection fern, resurrects itself with rain.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She especially loved horses, <br />
and a big scale. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna designed the iron work at Atalaya.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look how close Atalaya is to the beach!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jonathan Greene at the market.</td></tr>
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-25349088131642969032013-05-29T22:05:00.000-04:002013-05-30T07:42:46.472-04:00Charleston Mile Marker 470<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We made Dataw Island by noon on Thursday the 28th of May. Our experience crossing Port Royal Sound was a smooth one, so different than last year. While on the sound we heard a transmission from friends we've been trying to catch up with as they docked in Port Royal following a 22 hour run. It was bitter sweet to move through Port Royal to Dataw without that stop but we knew they were too tired for company. We expected them later in the day but I think the weather was perfect for an ocean run. Glad you are home, Jeff And Marjorie, we'll miss you. Once again, it was a "we should have done the outside!" moment.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But we slogged on to Dataw, arriving at noon. Docking was ok though swift current is the norm here. We took advantage of our early arrival to wash down Promise as the salt crust was building up. Time to rest, then a pleasant surprise.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The marina itself is older but has floating docks. The Sweetgrass Bistro restaurant above the marina feels newer. What a delight. We are fans of everything low country, especially the food. The food here by a local chef was amazing and the setting serene, porch rockers, screened porch for dining and live oak surroundings. We enjoyed "Pluff Mud Cake" for dessert- the locals didn't know why we didn't recognize this milk chocolate pan cake with pecan chocolate ganache frosting. Well, that's because we didn't know that thick muddy soil that we curse on the waterway in South Carolina is the fertile, rich soil that once grew Carolina rice during the 1700 and 1800s and it is known as pluff mud. Hence, the rich chocolate cake name.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We knew we had to have that recipe, it was google to the rescue. Not only did we find the recipe by the Sweetgrass chef and the history of this dessert but we found a link to a new cookbook, Shrimp, Collards, and Grits by Pat Branning. It's a coffee table book of recipes, stories and art from the low country originally published to celebrate a centennial in Beaufort. A quick call to the restaurant before closing, a second hike up the dock at low tide, and this book was in our collection. Watch out friends and family, we are practicing our "ya'll" and planning low country menues to keep this genteel feeling alive.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The palm trees have been replaced by miles of sweetgrass and live oaks draped with Spanish moss. The colors in the low country are sky blue, and every shade of green. It is restful to be here, even if challenging to move between towns because the runs are so long.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is no rest for the homesick so we cast off at daybreak, 6:20 or so. The herons, egrets, and osprey in the air, the crabs in the pluff mud were the only ones up as we left today. We played with dolphins on and off and only saw a handful of boats all day. Our biggest challenge was the entrance to the Ashepoo Coosaw River Cut which we found to be barely five foot. We knew tide was low but this was scary. We had to make the McKinley Bridge at low tide, and we did. With a tide of 6 to 8 feet, we can safely say that this bridge was never 65 foot because three hours before high tide it read 64, and this is the fourth time we have had this experience. The great news is that we had 67 feet at both the Limehouse and James Island Expressway bridges later in the day. We lost thirty minutes waiting for the Wapoo Bridge opening, but Charleston welcomed us at 2:15 this afternoon, just off the high tide. Two passes to get in our slip and tying up never felt so good. We are tired, need provisions and a good dose of art, history and, yes, low country food so we will stay a few days.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">End of the day</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Dataw Island, SC. </span></td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a>Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-83105428610265105132013-05-27T21:17:00.001-04:002013-05-29T20:38:52.885-04:00Into South Carolina MM 557<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Coastal Living Magazine includes Sunbury Crab Company in this year's list of the 22 best seafood dives in the country, and the only listing in Georgia. While it is accessible by car, the restaurant is on the hill above the marina by the same name. Now, if we rated Lang's Marina a two out of ten, this marina is a one as there are no real shower facilities. Water depths of 24 feet dockside were offset by swift current, even four miles up the wide and pleasant Medway River. Would we reoccommend Sunbury? It certainly was easier and safer than Kilkenny Creek anchorage we stayed in in the fall, and you can plug in- a bonus in the Georgia heat and green fly season. The large crowds here for fresh catch and the band are testament to good food- by seafood dive standards. By the way, Timotti's in Fernandina, FL, and J&J Seafood in Rock Hall, MA, make the same list. This was the best of the three.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today was another seven am departure to facilitate our passage of Hell Gate at high tide. Mission accomplished. Then we had to slow down considerably as we feared the tide would be too high for the under-construction-high-rise bridge at Thunderbolt. No bridge boards :(. We have passed mile marker 600, half way through the ICW and only 900 miles from home port! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">High tide or low, you can't have it both ways. At the end of ten and a half hours we pulled up to the gas dock at Hilton Head Harbor Marina. The description of twenty feet of water at the docks was misleading. There is twenty feet at the gas dock, but only two feet in the marina at low tide. The gas dock it is! It's only one night, right? So what if the restaurant is closed on Mondays, we know fifty ways to make pasta after a long run like today. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It will be an early night because its an early morning tomorrow. We are off to Dataw Island, then on to Charleston for a rest and great food. We feel fortunate to have this great weather so we are making the most of it. Dolphins swan with us all day today and swam under the boat after we docked, spouting to get our attention. The sunset here in South Carolina was gorgeous. At the end of the day those two things make up for any flaws in our travels. We know how lucky we are. </span><br />
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Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-84379420152523391232013-05-25T17:50:00.000-04:002013-05-25T17:50:18.448-04:00Images of Fernandina Beach, FL and Cumberland Island, GA<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eQBPJj_Yjso/UaEqzm0mV8I/AAAAAAAABIM/0ZtR_TuhnZs/s1600/DSC_0163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eQBPJj_Yjso/UaEqzm0mV8I/AAAAAAAABIM/0ZtR_TuhnZs/s400/DSC_0163.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What would have been your entrance to Dungeness,</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">The Carnegie Home on Cumberland Island.</span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IWq2vWNhK8o/UaEq2r53Y2I/AAAAAAAABIU/oxW3F_WDCqs/s1600/DSC_0172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IWq2vWNhK8o/UaEq2r53Y2I/AAAAAAAABIU/oxW3F_WDCqs/s400/DSC_0172.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The beauty is in the remaining details. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1UviTt3SE1o/UaEq4WxdRkI/AAAAAAAABIc/HMYdpxMURbY/s1600/DSC_0176.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1UviTt3SE1o/UaEq4WxdRkI/AAAAAAAABIc/HMYdpxMURbY/s400/DSC_0176.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Like there wasn't beauty all around, </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">this pergola was built </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">to walk through to appreciate the </span><span style="font-family: Arial;">grounds.</span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wO-U5qVFcVI/UaEq8rm1IAI/AAAAAAAABIk/xA3qv8YbaLc/s1600/DSC_0189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wO-U5qVFcVI/UaEq8rm1IAI/AAAAAAAABIk/xA3qv8YbaLc/s400/DSC_0189.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One is prohibited from walking inside Dungeness since it burned in 1959.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Knowing it is home to snakes and larger animals like bear and bob cat</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">is also a deterrent.</span></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cMA9hmd4k0Q/UaErBMRub5I/AAAAAAAABIs/QHynoi8rZys/s1600/DSC_0192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cMA9hmd4k0Q/UaErBMRub5I/AAAAAAAABIs/QHynoi8rZys/s400/DSC_0192.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MN0YKZPH2Vo/UaErDbyACxI/AAAAAAAABI0/HW5fORZ-0nA/s1600/DSC_0213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MN0YKZPH2Vo/UaErDbyACxI/AAAAAAAABI0/HW5fORZ-0nA/s320/DSC_0213.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wild horses roam the ruins and the beaches</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">where they beg from visitors.</span></td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M96pJnXpuns/UaErGzJ7STI/AAAAAAAABI8/Ps-lc1-LJ1E/s1600/DSC_0220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="292" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M96pJnXpuns/UaErGzJ7STI/AAAAAAAABI8/Ps-lc1-LJ1E/s400/DSC_0220.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wREjZtNaMco/UaErLQrY_wI/AAAAAAAABJE/bw2oFrVVfNg/s1600/DSC_0249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wREjZtNaMco/UaErLQrY_wI/AAAAAAAABJE/bw2oFrVVfNg/s400/DSC_0249.JPG" width="264" /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tZbo2K08DsU/UaErNgeCysI/AAAAAAAABJM/ODul5z1ADfw/s1600/photo_1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tZbo2K08DsU/UaErNgeCysI/AAAAAAAABJM/ODul5z1ADfw/s400/photo_1.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We can't ignore the happy fisherman! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">It was Rick's last day to use his </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">Florida License. His guide put him</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">onto Red Fish, though he had to </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">put his fly rod away to land a few. </span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tp8dRdnpeKI/UaEwiUVgx3I/AAAAAAAABJo/A0145woaOsM/s1600/DSC_0127.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tp8dRdnpeKI/UaEwiUVgx3I/AAAAAAAABJo/A0145woaOsM/s320/DSC_0127.JPG" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fernandina Light </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">from Fort Cinch State Park.</span></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yITErPeRgKQ/UaEwmXTZKsI/AAAAAAAABJw/fpGrQCss21A/s1600/DSC_0119.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yITErPeRgKQ/UaEwmXTZKsI/AAAAAAAABJw/fpGrQCss21A/s400/DSC_0119.JPG" width="264" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Coast Guard has turned the Light over</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">to the town of Fernandina.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It sits in the center of a housing development</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">and appears unappreciated,</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">though well maintained,</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">because it is not accessible to anyone.</span> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2009549258330266953.post-26584849419535465502013-05-25T17:09:00.004-04:002013-05-25T18:23:47.160-04:00Hello Georgia! Mile Marker 677<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">St. Augustine was a comfortable two night stop. We ate at a
local favorite, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">The Floridian</i>, a
great little farm to table place near the college. <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Rivers Edge Marina</i> was adequate and a ten-minute walk to downtown
or groceries. From there we moved to <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Palm
Coast Marina</i>. We selected it as part of tide/bridge planning, and while it
fit the bill for location, the marina and its eight foot approach were highly
overstated. The channel was frighteningly narrow and but we managed to fuel up
and get tied to the face dock. When low tide set in, we were in trouble. We sucked
mud into our heat pump system and had to shut her down. In the morning, we left
at first light which was high tide and we crept out of the channel. Despite their
hospitality to include us in their annual slip holder picnic, we cannot
recommend the marina to any cruising friends, it’s just too shallow to be safe.
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our run in Florida ended in Fernandina Beach on Sunday May
19. It was a four hour run and we timed our arrival carefully so there was a
slack tide for docking. Rick hired a guide to take him fishing Monday morning
and I picked up a rental car for two days of exploration. Monday dawned grey
and breezy, a front complete with fog dominated the next twenty four hours. We
could tolerate it because: Miracle of miracles, our intake valve cleared itself
and we had air conditioning without a repair bill! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We went out to Amelia Island to see how the other half
lives, checked out real estate, sifted for shark teeth on the beaches, toured
historic Fort Cinch and found the lighthouse. While antiquing at the edge of
town I discovered a new quilt shop near the bakery. In all, we had a good two
days on land. But wait, it was too good to be true, right? Our shower and AC
sump pump failed the morning of our departure. Not to worry, there are
mechanics in every port, or so we thought. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On Wednesday May 22 we motored a whole five miles to St.
Mary’s, Georgia. Insurance was now one less thing to worry about. We always
wanted to see the town and this was the only place to catch the National Park
Service ferry to Cumberland Island. So, two nights at <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Lang’s Marina</i> it was- but never again. To other cruisers, this
place is almost unsafe. They have limited power and an aging infrastructure.
Current made docking a challenge and our propeller screamed all night. To add
insult to injury, we hired a mechanic who never showed up to replace our pump. Town
is pretty but small. Oh, well, we don’t need to return there. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A check of the weather and winds convinced us we could not
anchor this week off of Cumberland so the day trip on the ferry was a taste of
the island we couldn’t pass up. The island is carry-in-carry-out, so we schlepped
backpacks, camera and bathing suits in to see the ruins, wild horses and the most
gorgeous beach on the Atlantic. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were
exhausted by 92 degree heat and bright sun but so happy we made the trip. We can’t
wait to return in the fall to spend a few days at anchor. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The lure of wooded Cumberland Island is that Thomas and Lucy
Carnegie (of the Carnegie Brothers, Ltd.) built a mansion here to raise their
nine children as an oasis from the Pittsburg winters. They eventually lived and
farmed the 7,000 acres full time. Thomas died a year after they built the home but
Lucy remained until her death. She engaged in the high society social scene,
her contemporaries all had summer “cottages” at Jekyll Island, a half day’s
sail up the St. Mary’s River and across Jekyll Sound. Upon her death, she willed
her horses be allowed to roam free and they still do today. There is rich
history here from the days Indians lived on the island as well as the history
of slavery and servants, lumber farming, and then the fall of the untaxed
millionaires. Lucy’s children eventually had to give the island up, save a few
rights they hold today. PS This is where John Kennedy married his beautiful
bride in a tiny chapel adorned with Spanish moss and candle light. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We left the town of St. Mary’s and made our own passage up
to Jekyll but did not stop, electing to move at high tide through skinny (5-10’)
waters and <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>make way across two rough
sounds before pulling into Morning Star Marina in St. Simons. By now the winds (15-25
knots) caught up to us and we could tell the predicted front from the west was
moving though. Hence, we chose to take a lazy two night stay here until winds
shift to the east/southeast and drop to a modest 10-15. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">THIS is a marina. Courteous staff, clean conditions, a
newspaper and muffins delivered in the morning. We’ve had a great dinner at the
Coastal Kitchen (on site), caught up on chores, chatted with lots of nice
people today, everyone letting the wind blow out. They had a wonderful mechanic
from the Catalina dealer on site to replace our pump and sell us a spare within
an hour of docking. How lucky were we? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the morning we cast off for Sunbury Crab Company and
Marina. The adventure continues on to Hilton Head, SC. We are no longer able to
get into Harbour Town as the entrance and harbor have silted to four feet at
low tide. Instead, we’ll try Hilton Head Harbor Mariana for two nights. Then, on
to Port Royal Landing near Beaufort, SC., for a night with friends. By then it
will be Wednesday and we are due in Charleston. Yeah . . . These days are a
little longer than we would like but the Chesapeake is calling, and high
boating season is here in the south making reservations a little hard to get in
some marinas. A week of cooler, drier air is before us so we will take an
opportunity when we can get it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We'll share some photos on a second post.</span></div>
Rick and Susanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17438226634027294009noreply@blogger.com